Climb Cotopaxi 6 days

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Climbing Ecuador's Volcanoes: Pichincha, Illinizas and Cotopaxi
Our Ecuador climbing trip offers an introduction to the glories of high altitude mountaineering (or for those who wish to extend their high altitude experience) whilst enjoying some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in the Andes.
This tour allows you to climb three impressive volcanoes in Ecuador: Pichincha (4,794 metres), Iliniza North (5,100 metres), and Cotopaxi (5,897 metres). The breathtaking views and sense of achievement make all the effort well worthwhile.

Getting there

Our Ecuador climbing trip offers an introduction to the glories of high altitude mountaineering (or for those who wish to extend their high altitude experience) whilst enjoying some of the most beautiful mountain scenery in the Andes.

• By Road
• By Rail
• By Air
• By Sea

Other Insider Info.

Day 1: Acclimatization Pichincha (4.794m / 15.724ft)


We leave from Quito after breakfast, and travel to the cable car in Quito, where we begin our ascent of the peak the easy way! However, the walk starts soon enough and takes us to the summit of active volcano Rucu Pichincha at 4.794m (15.724ft). Quito is nestled on the slopes of this active volcano. Our primary goal is to see how each team member responds to the altitude and to start the process of acclimatisation. The views are outstanding, so this is a great introduction to Ecuador's volcanoes. Afternoon return to your Quito hotel (not included). (L)


Day 2: Refugio Ilinizas (4.700m / 15.092ft)

After breakfast we head south from Quito to Machachi, the base town for the Ilinizas Ecological Reserve. Enjoy the magnificent landscape en route on the Pan American Highway from the eastern range of the Andes to the western range along the Avenue of the Volcanoes where Cotopaxi and the Iliniza twin volcanoes are located. There are over thirty of these picturesque peaks and the glint of the permanent glaciers on some of the higher ones provide a stark contrast to the arid rocky terrain and cultivated fields. After one and a half hours we will arrive at a remote paramo in an area called La Virgén. From here it is a 3 hour hike up to the refuge with our full backpacks. The refuge is situated at 4.700m. Dinner and sleep in the refuge. (B/L/D)


Day 3: Iliniza Norte (5.125m/16.815ft)

We set off early, at around 5 am. It is a steady traverse up the scree slope to the rocky ridgeline that leads along a slightly tricky rocky escarpment. The route to the Iliniza Norte summit (5,120m) involves a non-technical scramble that should not be attempted in inclement weather. It is a fairly short ascent and a good test to see how you are developing with the altitude in preparation for Cotopaxi. Descend back to the parking lot and transfer to Tambopaxi hostel, in the Cotopaxi National Park for a very good rest. Hostel Tambopaxi (B/L)


Day 4: Tambopaxi – Cotopaxi Glacier school day

We have breakfast at Tambopaxi, then we set off to continue our acclimatization on the slopes of Mt. Cotopaxi. The Cotopaxi car park is situated at 4.550m (14.924ft). From here we have a forty-five minute hike with full packs to the Jose Rivas Refuge at 4.800m (15.744ft). After arrival at the hut, we will enjoy hot tea and a short rest before climbing school training. We head onto the glacier around 11 am and aim to familiarize ourselves with the various climbing techniques and equipment. Your guide will ensure you learn the necessary glacier skills and all techniques for climbing Cotopaxi. You'll learn and practice rope-handling, glacier travel, snow climbing and basic crevasse rescue skills and safety techniques. After several hours training we will return to the refuge around 5 pm and descend to the Tambopaxi Hostel (B/L)


Day 5: Tambopaxi rest morning

Free morning, then we return to the refuge again. We prepare our mountain gear for a midnight departure for Cotopaxi summit day. Early dinner and early to bed, usually by 630 pm. (B/L/D)


Day 6: Cotopaxi-summit (5.897m / 19.427ft)

Wake up at midnight. Breakfast and equipment check. We set off up the scree slope for approx 30 minutes until the massive glacier wall looms up out of the darkness. At this point you should be able to see the lights of Quito shining surprisingly close (weather permitting). Climb up on to the glacier itself and wind your way through the crevasse field. Snow bridges have formed across them and the path is quite obvious. You gain height quickly as the ground steepens once through the worst of the crevasses. Onwards and upwards to a massive ice wall roughly parallel with the prominent rock band (approx. 5,600m) one can see from the hut. Traverse round and ascend up onto the summit dome finally gaining the top as the sun rises. High above the clouds a whole circle of volcanoes should be clearly seen including both Illinizas, Antisana, Altar and possibly even Cayambe. The darkness of the ground below contrasts sharply with the brilliant white snow shimmering in the sun (we hope!). The climb should take 6-7hrs. The descent should take only a few hours. You collect your overnight gear from the hut (there are lockers but padlocks are required) and after a short rest hike back down to the car park and return to Quito for a much needed rest. (B/L)

Why do we like them?

Having spent a year out in South America himself, Alex knows exactly what incredible experiences Andean Trails have in store for you. As true specialists in South American trekking, mountaineering, biking and rafting, and with a strong commitment to using friendly local accommodation, guides and businesses, you can be sure of an unforgetable experience.

You can also be sure that few international operators are doing as much as these guys to support and benefit the communities you visit and places you explore - making your trip go that much further.

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