Climb Cayambe, Cotopaxi and Chimborazo, Ecuador

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You begin your acclimatisation by climbing the peaks of Pasachoa and Guagua Pichincha, before heading north to Cayambe, first of the big peaks.

Getting there

Cayambe, at 5,789m, is the highest and coldest point on the equator. It is the only place on earth where the latitude is zero degrees and so is the temperature. Long thought extinct, Cayambe is now deemed to be active and is closely monitored. From Quito it is a 2.5 hour drive. In our 4WD vehicle we can reach the mountain hut at 4,650 m.

Cayambe boasts huge glaciers that cover all sides of this massive bulky mountain. The course takes place on the glacier within an hour’s walk of the hut. It is not as steep as Cotopaxi but the ascent takes approximately the same time as Cotopaxi, approximately 6-8 hours from the refuge to the summit.

Cotopaxi at 5,897m is Ecuador's second-highest peak and one of the highest active volcanoes in the world. It is a nearly perfect snow-capped volcanic cone, situated 55 kilometres south of Quito in Cotopaxi National Park.

We drive to just below the refuge (4,800m). It is a 6-8 hour climb to the summit, mostly on steep snow and ice slopes. It was first climbed in November 1872 by Angel Maria Escobar (Colombia) and Wilhelm Reiss (Germany). The last eruption was in 1904.

Chimborazo 6,310m is Ecuador’s highest peak, and is one of the most impressive in all the Andes. Measured from the centre of the earth it is the highest mountain in the world. Chimborazo is the southern-most peak in the Cordillera Occidental chain of mountains.

It was first climbed in 1880 by Jean Antoine and Louis Carrel (Italy) and Edward Whymper (UK). The best time for climbing is during January and early February.

• By Road
• By Rail
• By Air
• By Sea

Other Insider Info.

Cayambe, Cotopaxi and Chimborazo

Day 1 Accommodation in double/twin rooms with private bath. In the afternoon we visit the old town in the south of Quito, which was declared a World Heritage Site in 1978 by UNESCO. In the evening we have a detailed briefing about the trip from the guide.

Day 2 Pasachoa is an extinct volcano not far from Quito. The hike up to the summit takes around 6 hours, and you will be rewarded with spectacular views of the high Andean peaks around and of the steep plunging drop off into the heart of the collapsed crater, which is filled with ancient Andean vegetation. This is an excellent peak for seeing birds particularly the Andean condor. (B, B/L)

Day 3 Guagua Pichincha stands right above the city of Quito. It has a long history of eruptions. From the edge of the paramo, where we start walking, it takes around 4 hours to reach the summit. The final section is a rocky scramble. (B, B/L)

Day 4 Leave Quito in the morning and drive to the north using the Pan-American road to reach Cayambe town, then we take the mountain road passing the Hacienda Piemonte to the refuge at 4,600m. (B,B/L,D)

Day 5 The Glacier school includes two practical sessions on the mountain. During the practical sessions the following subjects are taught:

•Use of equipment
•Knots and harnesses
•Different walking techniques: French/ American/ Basic front-pointing/ Traversing
•Roping up techniques: two and three person parties
•Team travel
•Crossing snow bridges
•Anchors: general and in poor snow conditions
•Ice screws
•Abseiling
•Self rescue: Prussic/ Jumar/ Other procedures
•Moderate ice climbing with top rope

You will also learn different knots and their uses, roping up techniques, and the principles of self rescue using various techniques such as Jumar and Prussic. While in the refuge we also discuss high altitude medicine and basic first aid. (B,B/L,D)

Day 6 Half day glaciar school, afternoon rest. Overnight at refuge (B,B/L,D)

Day 7 We start climbing at midnight. After a small breakfast we set off for the top (5,789 m). If the weather and physical conditions are good we reach the summit in 4-5 hours. From there you enjoy a spectacular view of the Andes. (B,B/L,D)

Day 8 A chance to rest and relax, explore Quito and the surrounding area. (B)

Day 9 Today we drive to the Refuge on Cotopaxi - “Jose Rivas” (4.800 m.). We drive for about 2 hours to the car park at 4,600 m and from here we walk to the refuge in approximately 1 hour. We have an early dinner and bed. (B,B/L,D)

Day 10 Day walk Runinahui. (B,B/L,D)

Day 11 We start climbing at midnight. After a small breakfast we climb through the magnificent glaciers to the summit of Cotopaxi (5,897m) in approx. 6-7 hours then return to the hut. In the afternoon we drive to Riobamba. Transfer to the Hotel. (B,B/L)

Day 12 Rest day today. A chance to catch up on your sleep, and explore Riobamba. (B)

Day 13 We drive towards Chimborazo. Lunch on the way. The Whymper refuge is about a 30 min. walk from the car park (5,000m). If the weather conditions are good there’s time for an acclimatization walk in the afternoon. Dinner and bed. (B,B/L,D)

Day 14 The climb of Chimborazo begins at midnight, and if the weather is good and you are fit and strong the climb takes between 8-9 hours. Returning to the refuge takes 4-5 hours. Afterwards we head back to Quito.

Day 15 This is a buffer day - If the weather conditions weren’t good yesterday this gives a second opportunity to climb Chimborazo. Otherwise we make a day trip to Papallacta hot springs, an ideal place to go for a short walk on the paramo and to relax in the hot springs. In the afternoon we drive back to Quito.

Day 16 Transfer out. End of services.

Why do we like them?

Having spent a year out in South America himself, Alex knows exactly what incredible experiences Andean Trails have in store for you. As true specialists in South American trekking, mountaineering, biking and rafting, and with a strong commitment to using friendly local accommodation, guides and businesses, you can be sure of an unforgetable experience.

You can also be sure that few international operators are doing as much as these guys to support and benefit the communities you visit and places you explore - making your trip go that much further.

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