Scotland is a tantalising tapestry of a country - a place of lowlands and highlands, of jagged mountain ridges that reach for the sky and rugged coastlines which plunge into the ocean, of bustling cities, windswept islands and histories which vary depending on who you ask and how they feel that day.
The hills of Scotland are 'like a work of art […] perpetually new when one returns'.
I have had the privilege of growing up here and I have spent much of the last decade hiking around Scotland, yet I have still barely scratched the surface of the outdoors and the immense beauty here. That excites me, because I know how much of Scotland I have still to explore. What I love about hiking here is not just that you get to walk through these immense, jaw-dropping landscapes (nor the excellent waymarking in the country, or the fact that, despite its bad rep, the climate is actually very favourable to outdoor pursuits), it's that very often these walks will teach you something about the history of Scotland - be it about the cateran raiders, the whisky-smugglers, the dark history of the clearances or about deep time and the earth itself. I often come away from a walk in Scotland not just satisfied but energised and eager to both learn and explore more.
In putting together this short list of my favourite hikes in Scotland, I've tried to get across the enormous diversity that this country has to offer, in terms of scenery and geographical location but also topic - in essence, why the walk is interesting. All of the walks I speak about from my own personal experience. Hopefully this will provide the recommendations with a little dusting of the same wonder that the outdoors here have always managed to sprinkle over me.
Those familiar with the hills here will know these walks already (though as Nan Shepherd wrote, the hills of Scotland are "like a work of art […] perpetually new when one returns”). For those who have not encountered these landscapes before - well, you've got a lot to look forward to (but do pack midge spray).
Oh, and do let me know you're favourite walk! I'm also keen to discover more.
A Safety Notice
It’s important to note that these route descriptions are only short summaries, designed to inspire but not to serve any navigational purpose. They are not intended to guide you on the route and further mapping and planning (or a local guide!) will be required to safely walk any of the trails featured.
Some are serious mountain hikes, while many would be tough in bad weather, and simply not possible (or rather, too dangerous for everyday hikers) after winter snowfall. The mountains of Scotland should not be underestimated. Be safe and responsible out there. Don't litter and be wary of wildfires.
My Picks: Day Hikes in Scotland
I've tried not to focus purely on mountain summits in this section, although inevitably a couple did sneak in. There's some really achievable walks in here. The beauty of Scotland doesn't only reveal itself to those prepared to hike for 12 hours. Rather, it's all about knowing where to go, and learning the history...
- Walk the Uath Lochans, Cairngorms
- Climb Ben Lomond, Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park
- Climb Stac Pollaidh, Northwest Highlands
- The Mountain Path, Beinn Eighe NNR
- The Deep Time Trail, Siccar Point, Berwickshire
1. Walk the Uath Lochans in the Cairngorms
- Start/Finish: Utah Lochans Forestry Commission car park (circular)
- Distance: 2.5 miles miles (4km)
- Duration: 2-3 hours
- Difficulty: Easy
- Best for: Stunning Cairngorm views without a big hike
Hidden in dense forest behind the (excellent) outdoors centre at Loch Insh are the Uath Lochans, a collection of small bodies of water surrounded by trees. There are two waymarked routes around the area, and we’d recommend combining both.
This is an easy walk, but one rising to really wonderful views of Strathspey.
You’ll walk through quiet Scots pine forests, dotted with red squirrels, and slowly climb uphill on gentle inclines. There are various detours possible but if you stick to the path, it won’t be too long until you get to your first viewpoint out over the great Caledonian pines. This sort of tree density is actually quite unusual in Scotland these days, as most of the old forests have been lost. Continue on the path and you’ll reach an ever better viewpoint, looking down on the Uath Lochans from a high boulder - a perfect lunch stop.
What's great about this walk is that you don't have to go far, or tackle strenuous terrain, to get big rewards. It's ideal for a family day out or casual day in the hills.
Leaving the viewpoint, follow the trail back and connect onto the second waymarked trail, which will take you over marsh land on a boardwalk with birds of prey often overhead. This will guide you back to the car park. Take your time.
2. Climb Ben Lomond - Ptarmigan Ridge Circular
- Start/Finish: Rowardennan car park (circular)
- Distance: 8 miles (12.9km)
- Duration: 5-6 hours
- Difficulty: Moderate/Challenging
- Best for: Loch Lomond panoramas
Ben Lomond is the most southerly Munro in Scotland and the closest Munro to the Centra Belt - a one-hour drive from Glasgow. What this means in practise is that this mountain is the first Munro (mountains in Scotland over 3,000ft) that many in the country climb. The mountain is a busy one, but none of that makes it any less beautiful. The views over Loch Lomond and its islands, and the jagged Arrochar Alps, from the top of Ben Lomond are tough to beat on a clear day.
This route starts from the Rowardennan car park. To make it a circuit, I like to go up the tourist trail and down the quieter Ptarmigan Ridge.
There’s a great high-level horseshoe route that's one of the finest high level walks in Scotland...
This trek follows a well-trodden path, past dotted trees, with views of Loch Lomond from early on. As you climb higher, the loch will really stretch out. It has the largest surface area of any loch in Scotland. The route starts steep, evens out and then inclines again for the final hike to the rocky, stunning summit.
From here, the Ptarmigan route follows a tight ridge down. It requires careful footing but it's less busy and provides another perspective on the loch.
Don’t just take my word for it, though. “It's just one of these Munros that I keep coming back to again and again,” says Andrew Dempster, author of ‘The Munros: A History’. “There's a lovely path all the way up to the top. You can then vary the descent by coming down the Ptarmigan Ridge, and there’s a great high-level horseshoe route that's one of the finest high level walks in Scotland."
3. Climb Stac Pollaidh in the Northwest Highlands
- Start/Finish: Stac Pollaidh car park (circular)
- Distance: 3 miles (5km)
- Duration: 2-4 hours
- Difficulty: Easy/Moderate
- Best for: Incredible views, with minimal hiking
Stac Pollaidh, on the Northwest coast of Scotland, above Ullapool, is another mountain which shows that height isn’t everything. This mountain is just 613m (2,011ft) high, but the scenery that surrounds it is everything you dream of when you think of the Highlands and Scotland's great outdoors.
Stac Pollaidh has outstanding views of Assynt to the north and of the Summer Isles to the south. Picture sprawled lochs, steep gullies, ice-age ridgelines and moorland. There are few summits in Scotland where you get such stunning views for only a few hours of hiking.
From a distance, Stac Pollaidh looks almost impenetrable, but there's a good path up it, and while it's exhausting work, it's not technical. From the car park, you follow an obvious route, climbing on a curve to the right of the mountain. The view back down is to Loch Lurgainn, with Sgùrr Tuath beyond it. As you reach the back of Stac Pollaidh, Suilven and the Assynt wilderness come in to view.
The trail will take you up to a top plateau, and then it's a simple climb to the eastern summit. Most avoid the western summit, as it's a tricky scramble.
4. The Mountain Path, Beinn Eighe NNR
- Start/Finish: Coille na Glas Letire Trails car park
- Distance: 4 miles (6.5km)
- Duration: 3-4 hours hours
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Best for: A sublime Wester Ross landscape
There are a million reasons to love this delightful mountain path near Torridon in the Northwest Highlands of Wester Ross. The route runs through the Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve (NNR), which was the first NNR in Britain.
The trail looks out over Scotland's most dramatic areas - ancient Scots pine forest, the legendary Loch Maree, over to Slioch and up to Beinn Eighe.
You start in the Coille na Glas Leitre forest, a rare pinewood forest which has been growing here for thousands of years. The route then leads steeply up, providing immaculate views back to Loch Maree almost immediately. You'll walk over a quartz crags and dramatic rocks to the Conservation Carin, where you can look up to the ridge of Beinn Eighe, over a series of dramatic lochans.
The descent is also marvellous, taking you down with constant views of Loch Maree, then reaching a gorge and descending slowly back into Coille na Glas Leitre. This is a circular route that you'll never forget, and because it is both challenging but does not reach the peaks, it's usually not too busy.
The Torridon Youth Hostel is not far from here, and is a great spot to stay.
5. The Deep Time Trail, Berwickshire
- Start/Finish: Car park near Pease Bay
- Distance: 2 miles (3.2km)
- Duration: 1-2 hours
- Difficulty: Easy
- Best for: Geologists
This is by far the easiest walk included in this list. Indeed, some serious hikers may be utterly perplexed at the inclusion of such a short stroll on a list such as this - but I love the story behind The Deep Time Trail, and the walk has been created with such care by the team behind it. It makes for a great day out, and crucially, a very different experience to all of the other hikes above.
Situated on the southeast coast of Scotland, an hour's drive from Edinburgh, the Deep Time Trail only takes a couple of hours to complete.
The walk leads along the beautiful Berwickshire coastline, with gorgeous views of Pease Bay, but the main attraction is the history. This route leads out to Siccar Point, the rock formation which James Hutton visited in 1788 to confirm his radical theory of the earth, thus changing the course of history. By using the unique rock formations here - where layers of sandstone lie on darker, titled rocks - Hutton was able to evidence his belief that the world was not formed in 4004BC, as was the biblical view at the time, and prove it unfathomably older.
Along the Deep Time Trail, you'll find custom-built viewpoints and benches that look out over the North Sea, often accompanied by a block of sandstone engraved with a quote by Hutton - now known as the founding father of modern geology.
This route leads out to Siccar Point, the rock formation which James Hutton visited in 1788 to confirm his radical theory of the earth.
Each waymarker has a QR code on it which you can scan to hear an audio narration too. Some of the audio will tell you about Hutton's early life, and his journey to Siccar Point. At the further reaches of the trail, you'll hear poetry and songs inspired by Hutton's work, including a lovely piece by Karine Polwart. Although it can seem a nuisance at first to get your phone out and listen to these, I really recommend it. It enriches the experience hugely.
The trail culminates at Siccar Point itself - a dramatic rock formation, where new information boards explain the site and history. This trail is a thought-provoking time capsule. It's a gentle but gorgeous way to immerse yourself in the landscape, and it's deeply engaging. What a great way to spend a morning.
My Picks: Multi-Day Hikes in Scotland
Scotland is home to some of the finest multi-day hiking routes in the world. The best tell a story along the way, whether that be a glen being restored to its former glory or an island with rocks from all around Scotland, which captures a snapshot of the country in miniature. Here are my picks.
- The West Highland Way
- The Affric-Kintail Way
- The Cateran Trail
- Hike Askival and Hallival on the Rùm Cuillin
- The Arran Coastal Way
6. The West Highland Way
- Distance: 96 miles (154km)
- Duration: 4-7 days
- Start/Finish: Milngavie/Fort William
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Best for: The iconic Lowland to Highland hike
Hikers travel from all over the world to walk the West Highland Way, which became Scotland’s first official long-distance trek when it opened to the public in 1980. It remains the best known. The route runs from Milngavie, a town a short drive from Glasgow, all the way up to Fort William. The beauty of it is that it takes walkers from the lowlands of Scotland to the Highlands along the way, with the landscape transforming from forest to lochs and high peaks as you go.
Stuart Kenny
Leaving from Milngavie, you’ll find that the trail opens on humble forest tracks, passing Dumgoyne Distillery and the notable lump of Dumgoyne Hill on the edge of the Campsie Fell, before arriving in Drymen. It’s from here that the West Highland Way explodes into life, as hikers summit Conic Hill and earn sweeping, panoramic views out over Loch Lomond, the Arrochar Alps behind and all of the islands dotted around the water of Scotland’s biggest freshwater loch.
Trekkers walk the length of Loch Lomond - with the option to stay an additional night at Rowardennan Youth Hostel and climb Ben Lomond - and will notice the trail becoming increasingly more tranquil and wild the further north they get.
The journey continues through Tyndrum and the Bridge of Orchy, lined by Scotland’s Munros, before passing through the Rannoch Moor, an expanse of moorland that is particularly isolated. There's trail community on this route, and you’ll be sharing the trail with people you recognise from previous stopovers.
It’s an education in the makeup of the Scottish mainland.
As you leave the moor and enter Glencoe, one of Scotland’s finest mountains - Buachaille Etive Mor - dominates the view. This beautiful stretch culminates in an ascent of the Devil’s Staircase, climbing out of Glencoe and heading down to Kinlochewe and Fort William, with views of the Grampian Mountains and some of the highest mountains not just in Scotland, but in the UK.
There’s a reason the West Highland Way is world famous. It’s an education in the makeup of the Scottish mainland - and still one of the best hikes in Scotland.
7. The Affric-Kintail Way
- Start/Finish: Drumnadrochit/Morvich
- Distance: 44 miles (70km)
- Duration: 3-5
- Difficulty: Moderate/Challenging
- Best for: A rewilded Highland experience
This beauty of a trail runs roughly from the banks of Loch Ness to a point just shy of the Isle of Skye, which gives you a quick idea of its beauty.
Specifically, the route goes from Drumnadrochit through the rewilded landscape of Glen Affric to Morvich, which sits by Loch Duich, a sea loch which leads to Skye.
From Loch Ness, you exit out into the hills and forest, following the Affric-Kintail waymarking into Craigmonie Woodland with views back out over Milton and Loch Ness. You’ll walk through forestry commission on the first day to Cannich. It’s on the following day, from Dog Falls, that this route really comes into its own.
On a route past Loch Affric, which is lined by Sgurr na Lapaich and An Tudair, and bookended by a fantastic, curving beach...
Climbing high up above the river, you’ll reach the Glen Affric Viewpoint, staring down at the beautiful twin lochs of Beinn a' Mheadhoin and Loch Affric in the distance, the former of which is dotted with islands and backdropped by Munros.
The walk along the lochside is tremendous, with a mess of naturally regenerating trees on your left and the water on the right. Passing the River Affric, where many people end day two, the route then heads on to Alltbeithe - home to Glen Affric Youth Hostel. It's the most remote youth hostel in mainland Britain, reached by a fantastic walk past Loch Affric, lined by Sgurr na Lapaich and An Tudair, and bookended by a fantastic, curving beach (pictured below).
The Allt Garbh river will then guide you through Glen Affric itself and to the hostel. We’d recommend staying for a couple of nights at the hostel - which has a delightful fireplace - and spending a day climbing the remote Munros in the area (An Socach, Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan and Mullach na Dheiragain), which are otherwise tough to access, even for dedicated hikers.
The exiting day down to Morvich is superb. Cambon Bothy is a scenic site, and a remarkable descent, down huge slabs of stone, past the powerful Allt Grannda waterfall, awaits. From the foot of this path, it’s out to Morvich through the farmed landscape at Gleann Lichd, beneath the Five Sisters of Kintail.
If you want to make your hike a Loch Ness-Isle of Skye epic, the Skye Bridge is six more hours - or in my case, a bus, from near Morvich all the way to Portree.
8. The Cateran Trail
- Start/Finish: Blairgowrie (circular)
- Distance: 64 miles (103km)
- Duration: 4-5
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Best for: Experiencing the Highland Boundary Fault
Starting from Blairgowrie, a market town in Perthshire, this lovely 64-mile (102km) loop takes you through some of the finest landscapes of Glen Shee and Glen Isla, and showcases a wonderful, quiet Scottish landscape often overlooked simply because of its proximity to the more mountainous Highlands.
The name of The Cateran Trail comes from the Caterans, fearsome cattle raiders who used to raid the surrounding areas during the 17th century. The route follows old Drove Roads - once used to drive herds of cattle down for sale at market.
Get lucky and you may spot a beaver or two in the rivers around this area (particularly on Bamff Estate).
You’ll travel out from Blairgowrie to forestry commission land at Blackcraig with tremendous views of rolling hills, dotted with trees. You’ll pass Dalvey loch en route to Kirkmichael village, then reach a real highlight the next day as you climb to the Spittal of Glenshee, reached via a walk beneath Ben Earb, Creag an Dubh Shluic and Meall Uaine. This is where you move from lowland farmland to Highland mountains, crossing the boundary fault line and entering the south of the Cairngorms National Park. It’s a brilliant and little-visited area.
You’ll pass Forter Castle and Auchintaple Loch en route to Glen Isla, and enter Angus from Perthshire. Get lucky and you may spot a beaver or two around this area (particularly on Bamff Estate). You'll visit the Kirkton of Glenisla, lovely farmland and the town of Alyth, then it’s back to Blairgowrie to the finish line.
For me, this is the most underrated long-distance loop in Scotland.
9. Hike Askival and Hallival on the Rùm Cuillin
- Start/Finish: Kinloch, Rùm (circular)
- Distance: 25 miles (40km)
- Duration: 4 days
- Difficulty: Challenging
- Best for: A wild taste of the Scottish islands
Rùm is the biggest, and by far the most mountainous, of the Small Isles off the west coast of Scotland. It boasts fantastic views of both Eigg and the Isle of Skye across the water, without the crowds. The mountains on Rùm were named by the Vikings, and so there’s an extra drama to their names - Ainshival, Askival, Hallival - compounded by their rugged features, which rise high out the sea.
The highlight of this route is reaching the summit of Askival (812m/2,664ft), the highest point of the island, which sits on the Rùm Cuillin. The Cuillin is forged from gabbro rock - the same kind of rock that you’d find on the Isle of Skye. That means that in many ways, the Rùm Cuillin traverse is similar to mountaineering on Skye - in terms of terrain, difficulty and scrambles on the mountain - but of course, it doesn't get nearly the same footfall.
Much Better Adventures
Before you start the traverse, you have to get from Kinloch, the only town on Rùm, to the starting point for the hike. There is a very direct way of hiking the Rùm Cuillin from Kinloch that would allow you to complete it in one 15 hour-stint, but we prefer to take our time - and visit some of the other Rùm sites too.
Padapil provides one of Scotland’s great wild camping spots, with the ruins of ancient homes providing some shelter from the harsh winds, and a mighty sea stack framing this deeply isolated view.
Leaving Kinloch, you’ll hike from the east coast of Rùm to the west, and camp at Harris, where there are wild ponies, goats, and an old mausoleum left by a previous (rather eccentric) owner of the island. The views on the west of Rùm are truly wild, with the Atlantic waves pounding down on the coastlines.
From Harris, with no clear paths, you have to navigate over to Papadil, which can be done with great care over the summit of Ruinsival (528m/1,732ft), or indeed around the mountain. Padapil provides one of Scotland’s great wild camping spots, with the ruins of ancient homes providing some shelter from the harsh winds, and a mighty sea stack framing this deeply isolated view.
The hike from here to Dibidil (where there is a bothy) is an easy one, and it’s from here that you begin the hike of the Rùm Cuillin, first climbing to Askival, the highest mountain on the Island of Rùm, then traversing over to nearby Hallival (722m/2,368ft), the second highest mountain.
The view from both mountains is tremendous, looking sharply down into Glen Harris in one direction and all the way out to the mainland, and the Isle of Eigg across the water. There’s an incredible drama to this ridgeline, but as the mountains are Corbetts rather than Munros, they don’t have anywhere near the same footfall as other competitively beautiful spots in Scotland.
Even the descent back to Kinloch is fun, with some light scrambling (careful!), and a path along a river back to town, bypassing the abandoned Kinloch Castle on the way. The Rùm Bunkhouse is an excellent, community-owned option here.
This is by the most challenging of the hikes on this list, with dangerous terrain throughout, tough navigation and regular bad weather. I wouldn't recommend this without a guide unless you're very experienced in the Scottish mountains.
10. The Arran Coastal Path
- Start/Finish: Brodick (circular)
- Distance: 65 miles (105km)
- Duration: 5-8 days
- Difficulty: Challenging
- Best for: Scotland in miniature
Arran is a sublime Scottish island off the west coast of the mainland. It’s the largest island in the Firth of Clyde, and from the mainland, the view of it is dominated by a fantastic, craggy ridgeline, the peak of which, the corbett Goat Fell, climbs 874m (2,867ft) high from the sea floor.
This circular path is perhaps the best way to spend a week on Arran. Starting in Brodick, the main village on Arran, it first heads off to Sannox via Goat Fell. The forestry commission site at North Sannox is a pleasure to walk through, while the An Scriodan boulder field demands a little more attention.
You'll reach Lohranza - where there is a great hostel - via Hutton's Unconformity, then you'll walk to the quieter side of the island. Fantastic caves and geological cliffs follow, while more scrambly terrain awaits between Kilmory and Whiting Bay. This can be slow going, but it is a delightful stretch of coastline where you can spot otters and dolphins in the water, and there's also great views of the volcanic plug, Ailsa Craig. You'll walk past Lagg Distillery, then reach Lamlash. This is a small town looking on to the Holy Isle (a big lump in the ocean!) with a no-take zone in the water, meaning it's popular for snorkelling.
You'll complete the loop on a fine, coastal trail, leading back to Brodick.
This route is a mixture of mountains, wildlife, castles, boulders, villages and pubs. It's got a bit of everything (including almost all the rock types you can find in Scotland), which is why Arran is often described as "Scotland in miniature".
When is the Best Time to Hike in Scotland?
Scottish comedian Billy Connolly once joked, “there are two seasons in Scotland: June and Winter.” That may be a little on the extreme side of things, but it's certainly true that the seasons are unpredictable here in Scotland. The sun will shine when it shines and the sky will rain when it rains.
Naturally, the winter is (usually) colder than the summer.
From November-March, particularly in the north of the country, you can get a lot of snowfall. So if you’re going to hike in that time period, you need to have the gear and experience for those conditions. We would say that many of the hikes we've listed above are not possible, and should not be attempted, in winter conditions.
Peak hiking season in Scotland is from June-August, and these will be the busiest but driest times. April could be anything from snow to substantial sunshine, depending on how the Gods are feeling that day, and so could September. Personally, I love hiking in these shoulder seasons, as you get less people and you also get less midges - but the important lesson to take away from this is to be prepared for all weathers in Scotland.
That means having a good waterproof jacket that will actually keep out the rain, plus a pair of boots that can scramble and support but also keep out the wet weather. If you’re camping, a tent and sleeping bag that are up to scratch (meaning appropriate for the warmth, wind and again, can keep the rain out) is key, and of course, if there’s snow, appropriate gear for that – which may include crampons, ice axes and the knowledge of how to use them and navigate in such conditions.
Visitors constantly underestimate the mountains of Scotland, simply because they're smaller than in other countries. This often leads to mountain rescue working overtime. So do come prepared. The weather changes quickly here.
What Animals Live in Scotland?
In the Highlands of Scotland, you can see a wide range of animals, from red squirrels and pine martens to mountain hares, beavers and even elusive Scottish wildcats. What we will say, though, is that all of these are quite rare.
You're much more likely to come across some deer in Scotland. Red deer are the largest, with huge antlers that they shed each year. Roe deer are also native, while sika and fallow deer have been released in the country as well.
In the skies, you might catch a glimpse of a white-tailed eagle if you're near the coast, or a golden eagle if you're in the hills. Look out for ospreys near rivers.
In the oceans, you can see dolphins, porpoises, seals, otters and even basking sharks and orcas if you're lucky (though again, sightings are rare).
Hiking in Scotland: Avoiding the Midges
If you don’t know what a midge is, then you’re a very lucky person. Unfortunately though, you’ll find out when you come to Scotland. Midges are tiny little flying blood-suckers (literally) who will bite anything that moves, and leave an itchy mark. They’re attracted to the CO2, scent and heat of humans and are very much the bane of all hiking in Scotland - particularly from March to September.
Midges' favourite conditions are warm and damp but not windy. They also love still and humid, or cloudy conditions. If it’s actually raining or if it’s windy you should be fine, though. Midges can’t fly in winds beyond 7mph. They’re only wee, so get blown about easily – but when the weather settles, they do swarm. Cold and dry or full on sunlight – should you be so lucky – and you’ll also likely be fine.
Fires keep them away, as does insect repellent, which is really a must. Smidge is often used as a decent repellent, but different people prefer different things.
Where to Stay in Scotland?
All around Scotland you will find exceptional hospitality. Hotels are dotted around, as with any country. My advice would be to go the extra mile to ensure that your accommodation is locally-owned. You'll get a better visitor experience, an enthusiastic host, and you'll be benefiting the local economy when you visit.
Hostelling Scotland run an excellent network of hostels, many of which are in remote areas. A few of their remote hostels include the hostel on Birsay, on the northwest coast of Orkney's mainland; the Glen Affric Youth Hotel (on the Affric-Kintail Way) and the hostel at Glenbrittle, at the starting point to the walk up Scotland's most westerly Munro, Sgùrr na Banachdaich on the Isle of Skye. The Loch Ossian Youth Hostel is also often cited as a real beauty.
My advice would be to go the extra mile to ensure that your accomodation is locally-owned.
Bothies are also famous in Scotland. These are old, emptied farmhouses which tend to be in remote areas. They are generally maintained by the Mountain Bothies Association and they are free to use (and not possible to book), but you should follow the Bothy Code if you are going to stay in one. You can often light a fireplace inside a bothy, but a sleeping bag is usually still essential.
As a quick note, it's worth knowing that many boutique hotels or glamping spots will include the word 'bothy' in their name, but will not be bothies in the sense described above. This doesn't mean they won't be brilliant accomodation spots, it usually just means their accomodation is inspired by the traditional bothy, but in a more modern sense (being commercial, and offering a more cosy experience).
And finally, under the Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003 Scotland does have what is commonly referred to as the much loved 'right to roam'. This means that you are allowed to wild camp on most unenclosed land. Be sure to follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code if doing so. It essentially boils down to leaving no trace and don't do anything that could start a fire. Note that due to issues with litter, permits are requires to camp in areas near Loch Lomond & The Trossachs.
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Article by Scottish travel writer Stuart Kenny.