What an amazing experience this was!
I won't lie: the mountains were a rough start. I underestimated how difficult hiking at altitude would be and had a very challenging time while in the Drakensberg. Our host Sophie and our local guides, Mlungisi and Jeff, (as well as 6 strangers I had just met!) were very patient and understanding while I brought up the rear at a considerably slower pace. Jawdropping views, spectacular chain ladders, swimming at the top of a waterfall, skittering lizards, herds of wild horses, and unbothered baboons made every difficult step worth it.
When we transferred next to Zingela, I was flabbergasted. MBA's description of this area doesn't do it justice. It is a HUGE conservation area with a thriving population of giraffes (we saw a tower of 41!), plus wild boar, warthog, kudu, nyala, cape weavers, shongololo :-D, and so much more. The folks who own it run a tourism business which includes rafting, abseiling, and camping, but they also conduct research into the social behavior of giraffes, monitor the movement of marine species in the Tugela River via tagging, host local and foreign students, and aim to be as self-sufficient and carbon neutral as possible. It is a magical place. Our guides Jugs & Mpo were fantastic and made my first ever abseiling experience such a hilarious and fun time. I learned a fair bit about Zulu culture from them, as well. The wonderful ladies who cooked all our meals have my undying gratitude; everything was unfailingly delicious.
Onto the Wild Coast and beautiful beach hikes. If you aren't used to hiking on sand, this can be a bit tough on the feet. I walked most of the beach barefoot during this part of the trip and if my feet hurt, I didn't notice because walking along the Indian Ocean was such an adventure: fossils, petrified wood, a huge diversity of shells, titanium-rich sand, estuary crossings, and archaeological finds such as arrow- and axe-heads & flint knives. Our guide for the Wild Coast, Lonwabo (“Lolo”), shared many interesting stories about Pondo culture, cuisine, plantlife, history, and medicine. However, he also recounted the effect illegal foreign mining efforts have had on the land and how the locals are still fighting to keep these companies out. Lolo’s love and respect for the Pondoland is infectious.
The homestay at Xolobeni is a unique accommodation, and I think it's an important part of the trip for tourists to experience how many South Africans outside of the cities live. The lovely woman who owns it is a generous host and made us feel incredibly welcome.
Finally, Mtentu Lodge: no electricity & no cell signal! It's a perfect way to wrap up the trip, causing you to pause and reflect on everything you've seen and done (and how much you're going to miss SA!). Here we did some kayaking, then rock scrambled up and up to increasingly gorgeous waterfalls, and cliff dove into deep swimming holes. Though the rooms were very comfy, on my last night here I slept outside so I could stargaze: a night I'll never forget. The local folks who run the lodge should be very proud of how they've been able to revive it after a devastating fire and the owners abandoning it.
Everyone along the way (and practically everyone I met in SA) was friendly and welcoming. Such a culture shock coming from the US! Our tour was a small group of 7, and everyone was lovely and got along great. Our hosts, Sophie and Sarah, were wonderful and worked hard to facilitate a great experience for everyone. There was a slight snafu with transportation arrangements on the last day, but they immediately worked out a solution. I highly recommend this trip!
