The storied sidetracks around Petra are usually ablaze with visitors in peak season; the rose-red rock of the canyon a multi-sensory mess of bright hiking gear and red-and-white Bedouin keffiyehs; of desert silt that drifts in the breeze with the scent of sweet mint tea. The air of Petra is thick and heavy, the sun on the plaza warming your face as you step out of the shadows.
When you first see the Treasury, the most elaborate and famous of the facades of Petra, carved into the rock around the first-century AD, the background noise fades away. This ancient tomb is 40m (131ft) high; one of Jordan’s great pieces of historical architecture, cut into the sandstone cliffs. It has endured the rise and fall of kingdoms - and the best efforts of the tribesmen, who used to try and break the stone urn which sits on top of the carving, hoping to release the hidden treasure which, at least according to myth, an ancient pharaoh hid within.
We had the benefit of the major sights, such as Petra, Wadi Rum and the Dead Sea, being tranquil and peaceful.
Recently, though, the passageways of Petra have been less busy than usual.
“Pictures and words can't describe the beauty of the country and the places that we visited," wrote Dominic in a five-star review, after cycling to Petra on a Much Better Adventures trip in September 2026. "But what made it extra special was the service received from [our guide] Furat and the team. The support was always on hand to fix bikes, provide snacks and generally ensure that we felt safe and pampered. It's so sad that most tourists won't visit at the moment, and I do understand the reasons, but we felt totally safe at all times and we had the benefit of the major sights, such as Petra, Wadi Rum and the Dead Sea, being tranquil and peaceful. I'd go again next week.”
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A desert landscape
In May 2026, the New York Times published an insightful feature, detailing how “Jordan has long been a relative oasis of stability and calm in a turbulent neighbourhood.” It explored not how that status had changed (it has not), but how the perception that it had has “nearly wiped out” tourism here - an industry which makes up around 18% of the Jordan government’s revenue.
The article details how tourism fell by 70% due to the war in Gaza in 2023, and then after recovering, how it tumbled again in early 2026 after the United States and Israel attacked Iran.
“We were slightly hesitant about going to Jordan due to the regional tensions,” wrote Jeffrey, another Much Better Adventurer, who reviewed their hike Jordan and snorkel the Red Sea adventure in September. “But we are so pleased that we went and had a wonderful time. The local people are so friendly. The itinerary was perfect and we learnt so much about the country. The back door hike into Petra was breathtaking, as was the scenery and silence of Wadi Rum."
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Ruth Howarth, who works at Much Better Adventures, visited in 2025. “We travelled to Jordan around the time the Israel-Gaza war was at its peak,” says Ruth. “Although Israel is just over the border, the whole country felt safe, peaceful and totally unaffected. I felt awful for the friendly, welcoming Jordanian people. Entire livelihoods had been wiped out due to the lack of visitors (despite the fact the country was relatively unaffected), yet the people remained optimistic about the future and know that when tourism recovers, they will be ready to welcome people back.
“For us, the relative quietness of sites like Petra actually only enhanced the experience - and the local people were so appreciative of our visit.”
Jordan has mostly stayed on the periphery during these conflicts, although there is a U.S. Air Force base in the country which has been a target for Iranian forces. This air base is located far from the tourist circuit, but it has - quite naturally - spooked visitors, as has the early September attacks and interceptions around Aqaba, which have - and may again - lead to travel disruption and cancellations.
We asked Anton Al Sager, an expert in Jordanian tourism, about the situation.
“Many people treat the Middle East like one big country. So when there is unrest in one place, suddenly it seems to people like there is unrest everywhere,” he says. “Whenever we talk to our clients, we always acknowledge their concerns. We never dismiss them, and we know there are some concerns. But Jordan is open for tourism and fully operational.”
Peace in Petra
The New York Times feature states that more than 6,000 flights to Jordan were cancelled in March and April of 2026. Queen Alia International Airport in Amman has stayed operational throughout, aside from brief restrictions in March. Aqaba’s airport is running too - albeit with fewer connections. This, Anton explains, is down to demand rather than access issues.
"It's not really connected to safety - it's mainly connected to operational and fuel costs," he says. "Since demand for Jordan is reduced now, it doesn't make much sense for airlines, profit-wise, to operate at half capacity."
Anton is a long-time champion of adventure tourism in Jordan. He’s also the co-creator of the Jordan Trail and Jordan Bike Trail, two pioneering long-distance routes created to show off Jordan and to extend the benefits of tourism to those outside of the famous sites like Petra and Wadi Rum.
Petra and Wadi Rum were absolutely stunning - and remarkably quiet, which made the experience even more special. I also felt safe at all times throughout the journey.
At the moment, these small fringe communities being hit particularly hard.
“If someone is a bus driver with a family of four or five kids and a wife, they’re all dependent on tourism,” Anton says. “We’re not making anyone feel guilty for not travelling - but the economic impact is huge.” Petra remains as it has been for thousands of years - though currently, without the tourists. “Everything remains as it is,” says Anton. “And above all, travellers always feel welcome. It’s a rich culture here; the landscapes, the World Heritage Sites and the hospitality.”
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One reviewer, Penelope, cycled the Jordan Trail in September, and described it as “probably one of the finest cycle trips in the world.” Hannah was on the same trip, and, in her review, recalled: “The scenery was spectacular. Petra and Wadi Rum were absolutely stunning - and remarkably quiet, which made the experience even more special. I also felt safe at all times throughout the journey.”
Hotels and tour operators are now scaling back up for what Anton hopes will be a good season. And every itinerary run by him and his team is done so following the latest guidance from Jordanian authorities - including the Tourism Board and Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities.
Anton’s team tracks global government advisories, including the UK’s FCDO, the US State Department and Australia’s Smartraveller, so they’re always up to date.
On the ground today
The FCDO’s only current restrictions in Jordan (as of 20 Oct 2026) are a three-kilometre no-go zone along the Syrian border. This will naturally alert some travellers - but it doesn’t go anywhere near a single tourist route. “No itinerary goes anywhere close,” Anton says. “It’s always from Amman south that we go.”
From Amman, it’s 124 miles (200km) to the Dana Reserve, 155 miles (250km) to Petra, 217 miles (350km) to Wadi Rum and Aqaba. The Syrian Border is roughly 55 miles (90km) north of Amman in the other direction.
As you'd expect, travelling with a local operator also makes your trip safer.
“There is also a difference between independent travellers and someone travelling with local support,” Anton says. “Here, we are talking about organised travel, which means that you have a planned itinerary, trusted suppliers and local contacts that you can always refer to at any time of the day. And these local contacts are monitoring the situation. If anything happens, they have alternatives. Mainly, international travel advisories are focused on independent travellers rather than supported ones, who have got risk management systems behind them, and who are prepared in case anything does happen.
“We try to inform everyone rather than convince people - because, you know, no travel in the world can be completely, 100% safe anywhere. But we have processes and safety management systems and risk management in place, and we use verified sources to assess the situation.”
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Anton recommends getting travel insurance, and travelling with Royal Jordanian Airlines, who are least likely to disrupt flights. But ultimately, he acknowledges it’s all about visitors feeling safe and comfortable. Those who have visited recently report feeling exactly that.
We’ll leave the closing words to another Much Better Adventures reviewer, Jane, who was also on the Cycle the Jordan Trail to Petra expedition in September.
Jordan’s landscapes are breathtaking from ancient Roman roads to wild mountain passes and the vast silence of Wadi Rum...
“From the King’s Highway into the mountains and down into the desert was one of the most extraordinary travel experiences of my life,” she said. “Jordan’s landscapes are breathtaking from ancient Roman roads to wild mountain passes and the vast silence of Wadi Rum - but what made this trip truly exceptional were the people of Jordan, especially our guide Furat, who was outstanding from the moment we met him on a deserted hillside overlooking the valleys. His knowledge of Jordan’s history, geography, and culture brought every mile to life. He judged pace perfectly, encouraged us through the tough climbs, and made the technical off‑road sections feel achievable. His calm confidence meant we could relax and enjoy the challenge.
“This trip was tough, unforgettable, and deeply rewarding. Jordan is a stunning country, and is also incredibly safe and friendly. I would recommend this trip without hesitation. I travelled solo and this was absolutely fine. I felt comfortable the whole trip - I am tempted to do it all over again.”
Inspired? Check out our full range of adventure holidays in Jordan now!