Coast to Coast Traverse of Madeira

A super week, epic hikes and sensational scenery. The weather changes quickly so we had to rejig some of the hikes to different days but didn’t affect anything. It meant we got to do the best hikes and see the best views, we did the stairway to heaven a day early as the planned day had snow and ice resulting in the path being closed…best plan is to listen to the guides advice and do the hikes they suggest. Our guide and main organiser were fantastic, friendly, helpful, proactive and fun. We all had a super time, the hotels aren’t deluxe but all have hot showers, beds and three course dinner so after a day hiking they’re pretty great. Only thing would be, it’s more of a week of guided hikes around the island rather than travelling coast to coast. This didn’t bother me at all but just a heads up. That being said, the hiking trails were awesome, the eucalyptus forest was a personal favourite. The views are spectacular and for anyone that loves hiking and a mountain I would truly recommend. Really don’t need walking poles unless you always use them but a poncho is the best thing you can take!

Just back from a wonderful week in Madeira. We had a lovely guide Yulia. She made our trip amazing from start to finish. We weren’t blessed with the best weather this week unfortunately and very out of character for the island I believe. This meant a few changes to our itinerary and quite unbelievably there was snow on the night that we were supposed to stay in the mountain hut so unfortunately due to conditions beyond our control we were unable to do this special night. Despite this, the alternative routes were also amazing and the decisions that Yulia made were spot on.

Jorge was always on hand if required and super helpful when we needed anything extra.

Packing wise - I forgot my sit mat and really this was the only thing I missed (would be a useful addition to the kit list!).

As you can see from my photos my boots saw their last hiking days in Madeira mud and sadly did not come home with me! They have done many years good service 😃

My one suggestion for MBA would be to add a little addendum to the itinerary as at time of writing PR1 is still closed due to wildfire damage and there is no set time for reopening it so if your main wish is to walk the spine check before you book.

Overall highly recommended!!!

Although the weather was variable most of the week, our guide, Pedro, was fun, flexible and creative and gave us the best experience possible! His love and knowledge of his home was evident. I was fortunate to experience beautiful Madeira with a fantastic group who were all very supportive when my bag did not arrive until the end of the week. Pedro and Jorge got me to a sporting goods store to pick up a few necessities to get me by. They were kind and caring and went above and beyond to make sure my week went well in spite of it all!!! I can not thank them and my amazing new group of friends enough!!

Cannot recommend this trip more. I had an absolutely amazing time hiking in Madeira with a really fabulous bunch of people. Our tour guide Pedro was brilliant, he was great fun & had such knowledge of the island & terrain. We were unlucky with weather while we were there, but Pedro & Jorge amended the agenda to make sure we could get some great walks in despite the rain. The accommodation & food was really great too. And the island’s scenery is breathtaking!

Despite the appalling weather I had a really fabulous time. Unfortunately a lot of the high trails were closed but our brilliant guide Puedro made sure we made the most of what was available.

Wow the variety of different terrains for hiking and the stunning views were fantastic. Our guide, Puedro, brought it all alive and ensured we were challenged but safe - what a brilliant and knowledgeable guide. The accommodation was good - because of bad weather causing the mountain hut access to be closed, we had to stay in one hotel for 3 nights - unfortunately that hotel was not the best of the hotels we stayed in as rooms and the restaurant were cold.

Food was plentiful - packed lunches were huge! Hiking poles were necessary - though Puedro made excellent ones from sugar canes, so don't worry if you don't bring them. An extra bag to leave things at the hotel or to be transported onwards is a good idea so that you don't have to carry too much on the hikes. Cash for small expenses such as coffee/drinks is needed; but as everything is included on this trip, you won't need much.

I would highly recommend this trip!

Madeira is an amazing and unique place to hike - so much elevation change, views, biodiversity, microclimates. Our guide Pedro was excellent, flexible and patient in keeping the group together. Another great MBA trip and I look forward to more!

What a place, this trip was an absolute dream. If you’re deliberating on whether or not to book this trip, I hope you make the right choice… book it!! I had the most incredible week, it was just the ‘reconnecting with real life’ sort of trip that I needed. Our guide (Puedro) was kind, patient and super knowledgable, and he put up with the banter from the Brits, what a guy! We had a fantastic group of kind, open and likeminded folks. I was the least fit out of the group, slowest on the inclines but kept up on the flats and descents, I learned from some within the group that our guide recognised everyone’s pace and managed it very well so it didn’t make me worry and didn’t make anyone feel that I was slower. It also helps that our group were supportive… had there been a tough crowd, or impatient people among our I’m not sure I’d have felt as supported on the inclines. I say all of this because I want to give a guide of my fitness for anyone who’s maybe wondering “can I do this?”. I sit at a desk 9-5, I don’t gym, run etc. I walk a fair bit and I hike maybe once every 2 months, though I have been a hiker my whole life. I was able to do this trip and I knew I could do it but if you are not at least a hiker or don’t keep fit generally then please do not book this thinking it will be easy, you will need to prepare. I have never been a hiking pole user but this trip converted me, so relieved I packed them as I wouldn’t have gotten down some of the slippy descents without them, due to my tired legs. Only two of us in the group brought poles, and some ended up using bamboo sticks sourced by our guide for support when they needed it, some were fine without. We were generally very lucky with the weather for the time of year, it was about 24 degrees and sunny/cloudy/misty rain by the end of the trip. I spent hardly any money because the food was included, definitely good value for money - Ana’s place we stayed at for 2 nights was a particularly good feed, and the lunches we were given were great. Lots of bread though FYI! The hotels were mid to good, none were terrible, they were good for a night or two. The mountain hut was a wonderful experience, it was freezing/damp but the bedding was clean and there were plenty of blankets, I just took a sleeping liner with me. Pico Ruivo/stairway is closed at the moment due to wildfires so a couple of the hikes were altered, but I didn’t feel I missed out on anything as all of the scenery was fantastic. I loved that for most of the week we didn’t meet any other hikers. There is honestly nothing I would change about this trip, my top highlights were definitely experiencing the levadas and catching some waves at seixal.

A brilliant and well organised trip on a stunning island. We had a couple of days of rain and it was STILL so much fun. The days were challenging at times in terms of terrain but not overly long (plenty of time for poncha!) - so long as you are a semi-regular hiker you'll be absolutely fine. The mountain hut was such a highlight. (You absolutely don't need a sleeping bag! Clean sheets on the bed and the most blankets I have ever seen in my life!)

Absolutely fantastic week hiking with Much Better Adventures across different locations on the island. This is my 3rd trip with MBA and the combination of a spectacular location, well organised itinerary, great guide (Puedro) and an amazing group of people made this my favourite so far. If you enjoying hiking and are of a reasonable fitness level then this trip is for you. The only way I can describe Madeira is a mash up of Jurassic Park and Middle Earth - tropical forests, temperate forests, high peaks and lush green valleys. I will definitely be heading back for more.

Puedro looked after us all really well, making sure we had everything we needed and everyone was ok. Each evening he kept us updated with plans for the next day and what we would need in our day packs. His love for the island shone through as he told us about it’s history, flora and fauna. He really added to an already great group dynamic.

It was a shame Pico Ruvio, PR1 route was shut, but it can’t be helped due to the devastating wildfires. Gives me an excuse to go back and do it when it re-opens. The adjusted routes were still great and I loved the hiking in the mountains, especially on some of the narrow paths along the Levada and through little mountain tunnels. Moving above and below the clouds was truly special and seeing them roll in over the mountains at the hut spectacular. Don’t forget a warm jacket for the evening at the mountain hut! While some areas (such as the stairway to heaven) were quite busy it seems great care has gone into planning the routes and we often had large parts of the day where we didn’t see other people which added to the experience.

Some of the other reviews already have great tips so I’ll try not to repeat them but I would add the following:

Before the trip I did wrestle with whether or not to take my hiking poles due to some of the other reviews on here. In the end I didn’t take them and I was fine and didn’t feel like I missed them. I would normally only use them when carrying very heavy backpacks (which you don’t need to here). To balance those reviews that mention needing them I would say that if you are confident hiking, sure-footed and don’t usually hike with poles then you’ll be fine. If you have dodgy knees or usually hike with poles then I would strongly suggest you take them. There are steep ascents and descents on some days that go on for a couple of hours, on these sections they will really help. In addition if it’s wet the rocks and clay type mud (affectionally dubbed ‘Madeira Ice’), can be a bit of a challenge and the poles will give you that extra confidence. However don’t let my comments here put you off! Our group was mixed fitness and ability and everyone did fantastically and completed all the hikes without issue (some with poles some without). We all gelled really well and had a good laugh along the way.

Food was plentiful and I never found myself needing to dip into my snack bars. On some days breakfast was much simpler than others but there was still plenty to eat. I cannot comment for dietary resections, although there is a lot of bread on offer so it’s worth noting if you don’t eat it. Days 2 and 3 at Ana’s had particularly fantastic breakfast spreads. I enjoyed the local dishes despite some of them seeming a little odd ‘on paper’ they were all tasty. A special nod to the Pocharia 5 minutes down the road from Ana’s too. Well worth the visit as it served the best poncho we had on the island, leaving a few of us a little giddy for dinner that night!

You need to swap stuff in and out of your main luggage and pack depending on the days requirements so leave a bit of room in your main luggage to do so. I overpacked and didn’t use some of the items I took and had to ram everything back in my bag each day when we moved hotels.

Awesome trip.

Wow, what an amazing experience! Well organised and great communication from the MBA team from start to finish. The WhatsApp group that was set up enabled us to communicate and meet up prior to the official trip starting which was a great bonus for anyone arriving early.

I would say that the “challenging” difficulty grade of this trip is accurate. The first day started with a 45 minute steep climb and day 2 was a 3 hour climb through the forrest. While a lot of the trails are not difficult in technical terms, they are difficult just due to the very steep ascents/descents. The trail we did on our last day of hiking was a very steep staircase down the side of a mountain that ended up being quite slippy as it had rained that day. Our group had a good level of fitness and were well matched but we all found the last day a challenging hike. If you are afraid of heights or get vertigo, I would take this into account.

Despite the itinerary being slightly modified due to the recent wildfires, I do not feel like we missed out in anyway. Puedro made adjustments depending on the weather and was a superb guide. Managing the group exceptionally well at all times. His knowledge of the island history, plant life and passion for the outdoors shone through the whole week.

The highlight was the hike to the mountain hut and sleep over. It really bonded the group, a unique and special element of the trip which I will remember fondly. Waking up to see the sunrise was a magical experience.

Practical tips - bring enough walking kit for each day, you often get wet or muddy and drying kit in hotels is not possible due to damp environments or lack of radiators. Take layers, flip flops and a warm hat for the mountain hut. We stayed in November and it was cold over night. A sleeping bag was not necessary but more layers would have been useful. Head torch is not required, your phone torch suffices. I took a mat to sit on for lunches but did not use it, there are always benches and rocks to perch on. UV can be high so a sun hat and suncream even when overcast is required. Weather is changeable, pack your day sack for all eventualities. The hotels improve as the week goes on. All hotels were clean and practical.

Throughly recommend this trip and trying the local tipple poncha!

We had an amazing week, different environments each day and all were beautiful.

This trip exceeded expectations. Madeira is a stunning location with a fabulous range of scenery and flora. The walks were challenging - as advertised - but the views made the exertion worthwhile. Yulia, our guide was excellent - on top of every detail, always making sure that we were all OK, and full of information about the area and the history. It was a pleasure to be part of the group.

Unbelievable and breathtaking regardless of what the weather is doing. Our guide Yulia was excellent she is so passionate about the island and is a lot of fun

This trip was absolutely amazing and well organized. I booked with a group of friends after seeing how beautiful the island of Madeira is online, and I could not have asked for a better experience. Pedro, our guide, was extremely kind and very passionate about Madeira. He shared a lot of knowledge with the group and made sure to check on everyone. I am more of a novice hiker and haven’t had much experience hiking trails of this difficulty, and he was so patient with me!

I would say that the “challenging” difficulty grade of this trip is accurate. While a lot of the trails are not difficult in technical terms (they are well marked and are mostly paved with large rocks), they are difficult just due to the very steep ascents/descents. In particular the trail we did on our last day of hiking was a very steep staircase down the side of a mountain that ended up being quite slick as it had rained that day. If you are afraid of heights or get vertigo, I would take this into account.

The group I went with was also amazing! Everyone was so supportive of each other and encouraging whenever anyone was struggling. Despite the itinerary being slightly modified due to the recent wildfires, I don’t think anyone felt like we were missing out on anything.

I would highly recommend this trip to anyone and in particular would like to commend Pedro again for being such an amazing/guide for our group. I’m very thankful for the experience I was able to share with my friends old and new!

Whilst the trip was well organised i think the guide did not take into account the need of the group as a whole, and needed to do a more gentle warm up on day one morning, rather than straight up steps, resulting in me having issues with my IS band on my leg, and physiotherapy appointment back in the UK. This was very disappointing as I am a reasonably fit person. As a result of this i was not able to participate in all of the activities.

Perfectly organised hiking trip across this beautiful island. Good balance of time on feet and chilling at the accommodation. Great food throughout the trip. A good level of fitness is needed to navigate the steep up/ downhills. Definitely a good idea to visit in October (off season). Our trip was slightly modified because of the recent wildfire damage but still absolutely amazing! The short transfers between hikes and accommodation were nothing to moan about. Our guide Puedro did a fantastic job to show us around. Thanks!

The trip was exactly as described. We had some amends due to the wildfires but felt every effort had been made to include as much as possible. The views were incredible and the weather was generally kind to us, just the last two days we started in the clouds but it cleared as we got lower.

I would definitely recommend taking the hiking poles even if you haven't used them before, we didn't need a sleeping bag in the mountain hut- there were loads of blankets. The power bank was handy. Have cash on you but you don't need loads, found everywhere to be very reasonable.

Our guide was Pedro and he was great, really knowledgeable and took care of the group as there was mixed experience levels. I would call out the "challenging" rating is pretty accurate there were some tough climbs and the descents were steep too. A decent fitness level/regular hiking is required and remember you're carrying your backpack too.

Overall fantastic location and well planned trip, just know nothing is flat in Madeira!

We had a tremendous trip trekking c. 70km across all of eve most beautiful spots on the island. Our guide Puedro was terrific. He knew so much about the flora and fauna of the island, was chilled and fun and laughed at our jokes! Hotels were good. Logistics seamless. Group dynamic was great. We were knocked out by the incredible scenery, dramatic coastline and warm welcome. Very much recommend this to all who love hiking, camaraderie and have a thirst for knowledge!

I had an amazing trip early October, with Pedro as our guide. There was a group of 10 of us, which was a lovely number, as we were able to get to know each other very well and the trek didn't feel too crowded. The group was very friendly and Pedro is the best guide I've ever had on an organised trip - very knowledgable and passionate about Madeira, and a chilled out guy overall. The trek exceeded my expectations. I will say that it should be marked as intermediate and not challenging. Every day was different, from coastal walks, walking through green forests, walking through an autumnal orange forest, walking in the clouds on the day we did the stairway to heaven, and a well deserved beach day at black sand beach. Words can't explain how much I enjoyed the trip and how beautiful everything was, so here are some photos!

The island is so stunning, it is hard not to love it. I have nothing but praise for our local guide. His love of the natural environment, and his ability to share that with us was really special. Devastating wildfires had closed the high hikes, but the local company went to a lot of extra logistical trouble to allow us to hike as high as possible.

Madeira is a beautiful place to hike. We saw amazing and varied scenery, the accommodation was great, food excellent , fresh and healthy. Joao our guide was knowledgeable and fun and did a great job despite quite difficult circumstances due to unforseen changes to the itinerary. My only suggestion for improvement would be doing more to ensure that everyone is of a similar level of fitness and ability.

Loved every minute of this adventure, stunning scenery, great bunch of like minded people, challenging hikes, refreshing swims, plentiful meals, great guides, what else could you ask for! Our guide Yulia was passionate and knowledgeable and made sure we had the best time even though some trails were closed due to recent wildfires. The sunset and sunrise at the mountain hut was an experience to cherish forever! If you’re thinking about this trip, just book it, you won’t regret it :-)

Thank you to Pedro for being the most amazing, supportive and kind guide with a passion for Madeira that was infectious. He created new routes when difficulties arose due to the fires and I did not feel I missed out on what might have been. Madeira has the most beautiful scenery, the Lavadas are unique and the steep ascents legendary. I never felt a burden at the back of the group and that was down to Pedro and of course the fabulous group I found myself a part of. The cloud inversions, sunsets and sunrise were special, the food was perfect and the packed lunches were impressive. Hotels were all of an excellent standard and the mountain hut; an experience to remember for a life time. Swimming opportunities were welcome as I love to be in the sea, as did a number of our group. George was always in the background supporting the group and solving any problems. This is challenging but doable with a good level of fitness. I would recommend this for solo travellers or friends together, and opportunity for those like me: who want an adventure but aren't brave enough to go alone, or experienced hikers who like a group setting.

This was my first trip with MBA. I have nothing but great memories from the past week. Yulia & Jorge made every effort to give us the best experience following the recent forest fires which closed parts of the trails. Accommodations and meals were also great. Love Madeira.

Firstly - a massive thanks to our guide Yulia (and Jorge) who pulled out all the stops in challenging circumstances to make sure that our week was brilliant! The recent fires in Madeira closed some of the paths, but that didn’t detract from the week at all. Yulia worked herself into the ground making sure that we had a week to remember - but also a safe one. Her passion and knowledge about the environment of Madeira is amazing.

Highlights for me were the sunset at Pico Ruivo, stairway to heaven (again, thanks to Yulia for making that happen) and everyone huddled, somewhat bleary-eyed, for the sunrise on top of the Casa. Totally lived up to the reviews on here - and then some!

The sun seemed to follow us from Santa Cruz all the way to Porto Moniz. A great adventure, and a wonderful group of people to share it with! Memories made that I’ll cherish for the rest of my days.

Not sure I’d change anything - but the hotels (for the first few nights) had some quirks. The mountain hut was more comfortable than expected - and the accommodation (and meals) improved from there.

Oh - and DO believe that “challenging” rating… definitely take some hiking poles!

Yulia and Jorge took fantastic care of the group. Despite some closures due to the recent wild fires, we were still able to experience some incredible trails owing to their meticulous planning and the odd additional transfer.

The accommodation was fairly comfortable and reasonably well placed for the hikes, all things considered. The night at Casa de Abrigo was a wonderful experience thanks to the lovely staff, superb meal and stunning views. The trip truly showcased Madeira’s diverse landscapes, from the island’s mystical forests to its rugged volcanic peaks.

I was impressed that the local guides went out of their way to ensure everyone was adequately fed according to their needs throughout the week. Whilst I accept options are naturally limited in certain regions, its important that everyone is suitably fuelled for the activities. Most of the hotels served strictly traditional dishes but the guides made sure alternatives were available for those with special diets.

Our main guide, Yulia, was brilliant fun, kept us safe and demonstrated a true wealth of knowledge of the area. Her love for the island and her enthusiasm for the outdoors are inspiring. She really is the best guide I've had for a trip of this kind. Vamos!

Fabulous trip hiking across Madeira. Pedro was a fantastic guide. Good standard of hotels. Watching the sunset and sunrise at the mountain hut was a highlight. The walks were interesting and varied. Only downside was the number of minibus transfers. This wasn't a true coast to coast traverse of Madeira but I would still highly recommend it as a great way to see the island.

I have just finished a September coast to coast of Madeira. While overall I really enjoyed the trip there are a few tweaks I would suggest. Due to recent wildfires on the island the itinerary has changed so it is no longer as per the website. This means it’s not quite a traverse, slightly more disjointed but still a well laid out trip. The hiking was really challenging some days, think lots of steps, but rewarding and a really enjoyable trip!

Tips: bring cash and in small bills, lots of places don’t like or don’t take card. Ask you host in advance if you’ll need the sleeping bag/liner. As many have limited packing it might save you bringing it. We didn’t need it. While the tap water is safe to drink it tastes a bit ivk. I brought a Robinson concentrate mini squeeze bottle which was a lifesaver. Half the group wore boots half wore runners, everyone was happy but I felt the boots were good for the longer days. Bring some plastic bags for lunches/wet clothes etc A foam mat to sit on for lunches would have been handy as all the lunches are sitting on the ground. For the hut night bring a pair of sliders/flip flops and layers. Baby wipes to avoid cold shower also advised. Definitely think poles are required for this trip even if you arent used to them, the last days downhill in particular. Not every day has a place to buy snacks so even though there was enough food I would recommend stocking up early.

My only criticisms would be that the trip isn’t really a reverse and at times the food was below par, particularly some of the lunches.

This trip needs a rename… Not really a coast to coast traverse with transfers most days but some great hiking for sure. The terrible August ‘24 wildfires has sadly closed the ‘stairway to heaven’ and so the itinerary has had to be changed a lot and could do with some more thought. Pedro was a fab guide and everything was very well organised. Such a great group and lots of fun.