Tajikistan exceeded my expectations. The lake and mountain scenery is spectacular, even more so than the photos that I had seen. The walking is challenging but manageable, so the trip grading was accurate. There is no shade on some days, so bring a wide-brimmed hat! We were out in the wild without internet access for 9 days (even with a local SIM) and we saw no other walking groups until the 7 Lakes at the end. This is exactly what I was hoping for, an incredible and memorable trip.
The complicated logistics of the trip were very well organised. The chef did wonders with food that all had to be carried with us by the donkeys. The guys who managed the donkeys and set up / put down camp were super efficient and careful. The tents were new and clean. Hygiene was a priority.
Our guide Islom is young but he is from the Fann mountains and knows them very well. He was always thinking about our safety, at one point even sprinting from the back of the group towards an approaching pack of snarling dogs to keep them away from us. He was well respected by the other members of the crew. He would regularly check that each of us was OK and not having any issues. And he was very genuine and good company. He has a good future in guiding and will get even better as he gains experience.
We also had a separate mountain guide to lead us from the front and set the pace, which he generally did well though oddly on the downhill sections he would often disappear into the distance at a pace that most people wouldn’t want to match. It would have been nice to get more information from him in advance about each day’s walking.
The hotels in Dushanbe and Samarkand were great. The first homestay was lovely too. The second one, at the 7 Lakes, was not impressive as regards the rooms and facilities but the food was good and the staff were welcoming.
Bear in mind that this is Tajikistan, where adventure travel is in its infancy - it’s not Nepal where they have been doing trekking trips for decades. Some of the pre-trip information about temperatures, gear and luggage was confusing or inaccurate. And we weren’t always clear what each day’s walking would involve. But I’m sure this will be ironed out as this trip develops - this was only the second time it had run. You don’t get to come to the wilds of somewhere undeveloped like Tajikistan and get a fully formed comfortable travel experience. But you do get amazing views and unique experiences that you will remember forever. And you have the place almost to yourself.
For a good idea of what the weather/temperature is going to be like in the mountains, I suggest looking at the forecast for Iskanderkul on the UK Met Office website. (The trip doesn’t go there but it’s nearby and at a similar altitude. )
It was clear to me that the local company, guide and crew are all 100% committed to giving visitors the best and safest experience possible. And it’s spectacular walking country. I thoroughly recommend this trip to adventurous travellers.
